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The Irish head pic

The island of Ireland, lying on the edge of the known world for most of recorded history, has long excited the imagination of observers. Ptolemy believed Hibernia, as it was known at the time, to be a land permanently covered by fog and inhabited by man-eating giants. In the 12th century, the Norman-Welsh chronicler Giraldus Cambrensis wrote of a country with islands where people could live forever, and on which no woman could set foot and live. In 1572, the Englishman Edmund Campion, sent as a spy by Elizabeth I, returned from Ireland with a report full of so many oddities that it ultimately cost him his head. In the 19th century, folklorists uncovered a whole new layer of local tradition, custom and legend, which was every bit as extraordinary as the fictions of the early observers.

The Irish race of today is popularly known as Milesian, because the genuine Celtic population of the present-day Ireland is reputed to be descended from king Milesius of Spain, whose sons, say the legendary accounts, invaded and possessed themselves of the land of Ireland a thousand years before Christ. The races that occupied Ireland when the Milesians arrived, chiefly the Fir Bolg and the Tuatha Dé Danaan, were certainly not exterminated by the conquering Milesians. These two peoples formed the basis of the future population, which was dominated, guided, and had its characteristics moulded by, the far less numerous but more powerful Milesian aristocracy and soldiery.

All three of these races, however, may be considered as different tribes of the great Celtic family, who, long ages before, had separated from the main Indo-European stem, and in the course of later centuries blended again into one tribe of Gaels -- three derivatives of a single stream, which, having wound their several and independent ways across Europe from the East, in Ireland turbulently met, and after eddying and surging simultaneously, finally merged, and flowed together in one great Gaelic stream.

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What Shall I Say About The Irish?

What shall I say about the Irish?
The utterly impractical, never predictable,
Sometimes irascible, quite inexplicable, Irish.
A strange blend of shyness, pride and conceit,
And a stubborn refusal to bow in defeat.
He's spoiling and ready to argue and fight,
Yet the smile of a child fills his soul with delight.
His eyes are the quickest to fill up with tears,
Yet his strength is the strongest to banish your fears.
His hate is as fierce as his devotion is grand,
And there's no middle ground on which he will stand.
He's wild and he's gentle, he's good and he's bad.
He's proud and he's humble, he's happy and sad.
He's in love with the ocean, the earth and the skies,
He's enamoured with beauty wherever it lies.
He's victor and victim, a star and a clod,
But mostly he's Irish --- in love with his God.

Me, at a stream beside the ancient Saint Kevin's Way, in the Wicklow Mountains, July 2003
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Ireland's Golden Age

History is still going on in Ireland, and is therefore best avoided by all who know what's good for them. Ignore this and you'll soon discover that Irish history consists mainly of miseries and woes inflicted upon the residents by previous visitors. Among the succession of invasions, massacres and famines, the Irish managed to enjoy three brief periods of relative contentment and happiness known as Golden Ages.

Ireland's earliest known residents were the Giant Elk and some larger-than-normal reindeer. When they moved out, the megalith builders moved in. Overnight, or so it seemed at the time, the whole country was transformed. Holes were dug, paths were blocked, heavyweight stone slabs were erected, and the entire place was turned into one great big building site. The Bronze Age folk were obsessive home improvers, constantly shoving up new ancient monuments, many of which they clearly never got around to finishing. Not so with Newgrange, however, built to catch the brief rays of the sun, which shone for just a few minutes on just one day of the year. This is still known in Ireland as the Dawn of History.

Meanwhile, in the shelter of their sturdy homes, the Bronze Agers started to fiddle around with little bits and pieces of gold which they and their extended families had found in some of the streams and rivers of the Wicklow mountains, to the south of the city of Dublin. How they managed to get through Dublin's traffic on their way there is still considered to be one of the great mysteries of Irish prehistory. They fashioned rings and circlets, gorgets and bracelets, torcs, more torcs and even torcs about torcs... Business was good, dolmens and rock-carving kits were selling well, and the bottom had yet to fall out of the lower end of the cheap jewelry trade. Indeed, this was truly a Golden Age...

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Irish freeway

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Ireland Today

Travel and increased mobility has meant that the Ireland of today is populated by a veritable mixture of types, unimaginable in former times. O'Malleys have married O'Driscolls, McGrottys mated with McGurks, and Flanagans have gone off with the Shanahans. It's something of a rarity nowadays to see a "proper" irishman, complete with red hair, short temper and traditional "shillelagh" (a blackthorn stick used while out walking, and also useful for beating the living bejaysus out of one's neighbors if they happened to annoy one in any way...).

However, all is not lost, in a historical sense. The old ways are alive and well beneath the slick veneer of modern living. Time (approximately two and a half hours behind Greenwich Mean Time, and an indeterminate amount behind both Eastern Standard and Pacific Daylight Times...), still goes more slowly in Ireland than anywhere else on the planet. Life here is, in the main, relaxed and leisurely by global standards, and ancient traditions are kept up in colorful country rituals, such as dancing at Lughnasa, hunting the wren, and burning down half the place every now and again.

Friendly and open by nature, the Irish prefer conviviality and good cheer to sober isolation. On the Scottish islands, it has been noted, settlement takes place by what may be called the "public urinal system", whereby each newcomer politely moves to a spot most distant and unviewable from everyone else (perhaps to avoid embarrassing and possibly unfavorable comparisons, as in the aforementioned urinals...), and therefore cottages are scattered far and wide. On the Irish islands, by contrast, homesteads tend to cluster together in friendly huddles of tight togetherness.

Talking at length in Ireland is a national pastime, whether or not one has had the opportunity to visit the legendary Blarney Stone, which is said to convey the gift of eloquence on those who kiss it. Expert talkers here take great delight in leading anyone who cares to listen down tortuous tracks of conversation involving many and various subjects, and off into flights of pure fancy, quite often without a flight plan or estimated arrival time of any kind.

So that's Ireland for yeh, but for all its Celtic idiosyncrasies and eccentricity, there's nowhere else in the world I'd rather live, and that's tellin' yeh the honest truth!

Sheep helping with directions
You can always depend on help from the locals while trying to find your way around Ireland.

Irish tour bus by Terry Willers

Touring the back roads of Ireland can be something of an adventure...(Only kidding, of course!)

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The Celtic art images in these web pages are by Jim Fitzpatrick,
one of the most talented and respected Irish artists ever to wield a paintbrush.
Please do not use these graphics without contacting him regarding permission to do so. Thank you.
You can see more of Jim's amazing work here.

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